Is it better to train everything or focus on weaknesses in climbing and bouldering?

Climbing training, whether for sport climbing, bouldering, etc., has evolved a lot in recent years. Before, most people simply climbed more to improve. Today, with the advent of more advanced methodologies, a recurring question arises: Is conventional training that works all capacities in a balanced way better, or should one focus specifically on handicaps and weaknesses?

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Conventional Training: The Foundation of Progress

Conventional climbing training typically includes a balanced approach where endurance, strength, technique, and mobility are worked on progressively.

The main benefits of this type of training are:

• Comprehensive development: It allows for improvement in all aspects of climbing without leaving obvious weak points.
• Lower risk of injury: A balanced body is less prone to injuries from overuse or compensation.
• Constant improvement: Progress is made steadily without major fluctuations in performance.
• Preparation for any route or boulder: You don't specialize too much and can perform well in different styles.

However, this type of training can also have some disadvantages:

• Slower progress: By not focusing on correcting specific weaknesses, it can be harder to overcome certain plateaus.
• Less specificity: If you have a clear climbing style, it might not be the most efficient.

Training only handicaps: Shortcut to success or trap?

Another training trend proposes focusing almost exclusively on weak points. The idea is that if you improve your weakest aspects, your overall performance will skyrocket. Some benefits of this approach are:

• Rapid progress in certain aspects: If your problem is finger strength and you train it intensely, you can notice improvements in a short time.
• Overcoming blocks: Helps to overcome specific difficulties that prevent you from sending certain boulders or routes.
• Efficiency: Focusing energy on what truly limits you could make you progress faster.

Nevertheless, it also has significant drawbacks:

• Risk of injuries: If you only train what you're bad at, you can overload structures that are not prepared for it.
• Loss of global capacities: If you only focus on finger strength, for example, you could neglect endurance or mobility.
• Frustration: Constantly working on what you're worst at can be mentally exhausting and demotivating.

What is the best strategy?

As with almost everything, the key lies in balance. A good training plan should combine the best of both approaches:

1. Train holistically, ensuring that you improve in all basic aspects of climbing. This way, even if complementarily, you will continue to work on your strengths, maintaining them over time.
2. Dedicate specific sessions to your handicaps, but without neglecting the rest of your preparation. Incorporate exercises that force you to use the movements you struggle with. Repetition will build muscle memory and help overcome those limitations.
3. Periodically evaluate your progress to adjust your training according to what you need at each stage. You can do mesocycles and repeat tests to assess whether you have improved in each training phase.
4. Listen to your body to avoid overloads and injuries from overly focused work. It is essential to always train with zero pain or below 4 out of 10 on the pain threshold. Both during recovery and in your daily life, if you notice that you exceed that threshold, reduce the intensity or stop completely. Remember that hydration is an essential factor for muscles to work at optimal fatigue levels.

If you want to optimize your training and reach your best level on rock or on the wall, finding the balance between these two approaches will be key.

And you, have you tried training only your handicaps? Leave us a comment with your training strategies and what results you have obtained. Do you find it more effective to work on everything or to focus on your weaknesses? See you on the wall!